Bell & Ross BR01 Phantom Left Hand

I am currently on holiday and just visited one of my favourite watch shop. I found out that they currently sell Bell & Ross watches. I do like the brand and I do like the watches. So visiting the shop and not leaving with a Bell & Ross was hard, more so when they do have a couple of very nice BR01 watches, which I do really like. 

However I found out that Bell & Ross has issued a very interesting watch in the BR01-92 Phantom Left Hand. This is a limited edition watch they released with the opening of their Singapore Boutique earlier this year. The watch, a limited run of only 50 pieces features the black powder coated case and black luminova on the hands and Arabic hour index. As wit the standard BR01-92, the watch is an XXL 46 mm. Had the shop have this watch, I am sure I would have gotten it. I do like the Phantom and added with the fact it is left-handed makes it much much more desirable.

The watch.

Photograph: Bell & Ross

Bracelet adjustment on my Tutima

I finally got myself the Tutima Military NATO Chronograph TL watch. Actually I wanted the Tutima Military NATO Chronograph T watch but never got it. Maybe the price was not right or one never came up or there were issues with the watch. I was once offered the stainless steel version of the watch (the T not TL), but I wanted the titanium version. There is another shop that has the T version but the price was a tad high. Before we go one, what is the difference? Well the Chronograph T is the version without the bezel (lunette). So the Chronograph TL would be Titanium Lunette? 

However I manage to get one at a good price and the condition of the watch is pretty good. It comes with the box and papers. It has also been last serviced by Tutima in 2008. Thank you to those involved. Why I like the watch? The Lemania 5100 movement that powers the watch and the size, 43 mm diameter. I have another watch with the Lemania 5100 in the Revue Thommen, but it is 'small'. In fact I believe it is the smallest Lemania 5100 powered watch.

The watch has been adjusted by the last owner and it is too small for me. Lucky for me, the owner still had all the links. So out with the tools.

The extra links. 

The back view. Note the arrow, showing the direction to 'punch' out the lock pins.

The link in the holder. I need to do this to push out the lock pins as it was in the link.

The lock pins. It is held in place by the offset tab. You can just see it here. The tab is formed by pinching the lock pin. 

Another view of the lock pins. You can see the tab.

The bracelet, as said earlier was adjusted for a smaller wrist. There is no adjustment links on this side of the bracelet.

The fine adjustment on the clasp. There are only three adjustment holes on the clasp. It is currently in the middle.

The other side of the bracelet has two adjustment links. Notice the wordings 'TITAN'? The bracelet is made of solid  titanium.

What I like about the watch? The bracelet has the diver extension. I never consider this watch to be a diver watch. It can't be as the Chronograph T does not have a bezel to measure dive time and the TL, although it has a bezel, it can rotate both ways (which is dangerous for divers). I always consider this watch a pilot watch. By the way, the watch is water resistant rated to 20 ATM.

The first thing I do is to put the fine adjustment to the smallest setting. This so that (in-case) I get fat, I have 2 more adjustment points.

The 'balance' check. This is to check that the clasp is 'balance' to the watch. Basically both sides of the bracelet are about the same length. If the lengths are not the same, the watch can rotate on your wrist. As can be seen below, it is not very balance.

Splitting the bracelet to put in the extra links.

You can see the lock pin in the link. 

The extra link is added. 

Now the other side is split.

The other side ready for the extra link.

The clasp waiting to be reattached to the bracelet.

Everything is done. Before you push the lock pins in, check for fit and balance.

The balance check. Looks better and more balance.

Fit and comfort test. I have to say that the bracelet is one of the most comfortable bracelet that I have tried on.

Once everything is fit tested, push the lock pins in.

I used a 0.8 pin to push the lock pins out. It is important to chose the correct pin size. Too thin and you damage both the push pin and the lock pin. To large and you damage the hole in the link.

I use the size 1 pin to make sure the lock pins are flushed with the sides of the link. And there you have it, how to adjust the bracelet on the Tutima Military NATO Chronograph.

Slowdown in postings

I will be away next week. As such there will be a slowdown in the number of postings. It will pick up after the 3rd of October.

Christopher Ward C60 Trident GMT

Christopher Ward of UK will be launching their C60 Trident GMT line of watches in October. This will their first GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) watch. It is also known as a dual time watch. These new watches are very exciting. It is a true GMT movement, where the 12 hour hand can be set independently from the 24 hour hand. This is similar to the system used in the Rolex GMT Master II and the Omega Seamaster GMT.

First a little about Christopher Ward watch company. It is small British company that was was founded on a boat on the River Thames in 2004 by Mike France, Chris Ward and Peter Ellis. Its mission is to design high quality Swiss-made luxury watches that are "the cheapest most expensive watches in the world". I believe they are well on their way to achieving this goal.

Anyway, back to the watch. The C60 Trident GMT will feature the following functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date and dual time. The watch measures in at 42mm diameter, and is 13mm in height. The case is constructed of marine grade steel. The crystal, which is sapphire, has anti reflection coating and is 4mm thick. It will be powered by a customized ETA 2893-2. This movement allows for the independent setting of the dual time function, and date change (forward and backward) with the 12 hour hand. The movement also hacks. I like the Trident sweep second hand, from which the watch gets its name. The watch is water resistant to 300m or 30 ATM. Not many GMT watches offers such a level of water resistance. It also has an anodized aluminum uni-directional bezel which can act as a third time zone.

The watch is available on either a leather strap, rubber strap or metal bracelet. Each watch will be individually serialized. As with any Christopher Ward watches, these watches will have a 60 month warranty. The watches are expected to retail for about $700-800 USD, depending on what type of strap you choose.

For more information:

Christopher Ward

The watches.

Photographs: Christopher Ward

Patek Philippe Exhibition Taiwan

China Watch here in Tainan Taiwan will be holding a Patek Philippe Exhibition showcasing Patek's 2010 novelties. The exhibition will run from the 30th September to the 3rd October. For more information:

China Watch

Seiko Marine Master White Dolphin

I am truly a WIS. What is a WIS? It stands for Watch Idiot Savant. So why am I a WIS? Well I had a Root Canal today, OK the technical term is Endodontic Therapy. After the treatment, I did not go home. I went to a shopping mall called Takashimaya. I went there because I was told by my friendly watch shop that Seiko is having an exhibition there (for those in Taiwan, it is Takashimaya in Tienmou). By the way, a WIS is someone who knows a lot about watches but nothing else.

Well there was not really an exhibition but the Seiko shop there is introducing the new Seiko Marine Master White Dolphin reference SBBN19. But before we get to the watch, they (Seiko) did have on display the following watches. These is a representation of the dive watches Seiko had made over the past 45 years. How I wish I had even 1 of these fine watches.

Before anyone asks, nope none of these watches are for sale. I know, I asked.

The focus of the exhibition is of course this watch. The Limited Edition Seiko Marine Master White Dolphin.

A much nicer photograph.

Photograph: Seiko

A bit more about the Marine Master. The watch is issued to commemorate the 45th. Anniversary of Seiko making dive watches. The Prospex Marine Master, reference SBBN19 watch is called the White Dolphin (because of the white ceramic surround?). The watch features a ceramic-coated titanium case and is water resistant to 1,000 meters. It is a limited edition run of only 300 pieces and individually serialised. I understand that Taiwan has been allocated 30 pieces. The retail price is USD 2,100. It is retailing for NTD 85,000. I would be very tempted had it been an automatic like the Seiko reference SBDX011.

Basic specifications:

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, day and date

Case: Titanium with white ceramic coating, 49.3 mm diameter, 15.3 mm thick

Movement: Seiko caliber 7C36 quartz

Crystal: sapphire

Water resistant: 100 ATM

Watch Competition (Taiwan Specific)

The watch site iWatchome is currently having a competition where the winner can win a Maurice Lacroix watch. I can't read Mandarin but from my understanding, all you have to do is to submit an essay and photograph of your watch and you stand a chance to win the watch. You have to write what is so special about the watch. For those who can read Mandarin, please visit the website and give it a try. The ML is worth about NTD 120,000.