Monday, June 30, 2014

Côtes de Genève: The Elegant Engravings of the BOVET Artisan's Hand

Found in the New Récital 12 “Monsieur DIMIER” 
Calibre Virtuoso II Spécialité Horlogère Dimier 1738.

For its first appearance, Pascal Raffy and the BOVET team present the Récital 12, "Monsieur DIMIER” in splendor, brimming with the innovations attained over two centuries of watchmaking tradition and artisan craft. First presented at the Salon BOVET 2014, the Récital 12 is available in radiant 18-carat red or pristine 18-carat white gold, in a variety of strap options.

A series of elegant curves, the Recital 12 presents contours and symmetrical shapes against which the time is displayed in the off-center dial at 3 o’clock. The surfaces of the bridge present circular Côtes de Genève decorations centered on the axis of the seconds-hand. It is with a rare elegance that the concentric shapes of the movement and its decoration lead the eye directly to the essential information provided by this calibre.

Photographs: Bovet

This timepiece is powered by the first movement developed and manufactured entirely by watchmakers of the DIMIER Manufacture and to be regulated by a non-tourbillon movement. Five years of development has been needed to develop this movement. Specifically conceived and designed for the special features of different BOVET 1822 collections, this calibre has the ability to evolve and adapt to the type of indications it will be required to display.

Saturday, June 28, 2014

Rolex Explorer II

I have always liked the Rolex Explorer II... (Well, off and on). So when the opportunity presented itself for me to see and touch and even compare the new 42mm Explorer II reference 216750 and the 16750, I jumped. 

The watches...

The Explorer II reference 216750, polar and noir. 

A 'better' view of the pair. 

The polar. Very nice indeed. Build quality is exceptional. Maxi dial and hands. Massive dial real estate and orange GMT hands. Love the new bracelet and clasp.

The noir. Looks good, great in fact. The 'floating' hands effect.... well..... maybe not well executed. Love the matte black dial. 

The new and the old (well not that old). Reference 216750 vs 16750 polar. 

Another view. 

Closer view for comparison.

The 40mm classic polar Explorer II. 

The noir pairing. 

Another view.

For comparison. 

The 40mm classic black. 

Fantastic 4, under rated and under appreciated. 

So at the end of the day, my thoughts and opinion? 

But first, between the polar and the noir? I chose the polar. I like white dial watches, even though I only have 1 at the moment. I think I am influenced by the Rolex ads that always show the polar Explorer II. :)

Well, the build quality of the new Explorer II is great, much better in feel from the old. The clasp, wins hands down. And best of all, the use of a new movement, caliber 3187 instead of 3186 with a spacer to fit the larger case (there are other improvements between calibers, not just a large base plate). 

So between the new and the old polar... I like the old Polar. I feel that the maxi dial and hands just does not sing to me. My attention is drawn towards the minute hand, which to me seems overpowering. It seems too big for the watch. Makes me feel that the watch is unbalanced. I do love the orange GMT hand and the writing on the dial though.

I like the old polar as I still think that 40mm is the classic Rolex size. The dial seems more proportionate as compared to the new polar. Maybe it is me and my old ways. 

A mix of the two would be nice. Who knows, maybe one day Rolex may decide to reissue the Explorer II in 40 mm size and call it 116750, the current polar dial, but with the little tweaks of the new, i.e. the orange hands and 'EXPLORER II' in orange or red....

Friday, June 27, 2014

Grieb & Benzinger Centurion and Centurion Imperial

GRIEB&BENZINGER presents two new bespoke platinum creations: the CENTURION and the CENTURION IMPERIAL.

The Centurion.

The Centurion Imperial.

As so often the case with GRIEB&BENZINGER’s masterful skeleton watches, these new creations are the result of inspiration from an ambitious watch connoisseur looking for incredible, understated skeleton watches that nonetheless proffer value and handcrafts, but in an “invisible” way. Naturally, they are imposing in a mechanical sense, but the casual observer will already be impressed with their cool looks.

The interesting collector request inspired GRIEB&BENZINGER`s CEO and creative whirlwind Georg Bartkowiak to transfer the brand’s bestseller ― the BLACK TULIP ― into a never-seen-before platinum execution. The classic BLACK TULIP already stunning as it is, has been transformed into a glamorous, yet simultaneously understated, high-end timepiece boasting an all-black appearance. The idea of the totally understated value of solid Platinum (PT950) beneath a blackened surface in combination with pure hand-skeletonization appealed to this client’s ideal of discreet taste. A lavish, almost cheeky, way of expressing understatement that is as-yet unmatched in the world of luxury timepieces.

Making it even cooler, the masters of GRIEB&BENZINGER combined this understated look with an expressive, eye-catching bezel pavé-set with 66 red diamonds in the exclusive Princess cut to create a second watch.

The CENTURION is remarkable in its understatement, though it remains highly valuable. The dramatic CENTURION IMPERIAL is perfectly topped off with a bezel set with red Princess-cut diamonds. Like every GRIEB&BENZINGER creation, these watches are exceedingly rare.

Skeleton Watch CENTURION

Blackened manually wound movement, fully skeletonized, guilloché and engraved by hand. Solid, completely blackened platinum PT950 case, 43 mm in diameter, black alligator-skin strap with solid platinum PT950 blackened buckle. 


Bezel set with 66 red Princess-cut diamonds.

Photographs: Grieb&Benzinger

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec SFV Special Edition watch

To mark the world's biggest soccer event, Lucerne-based watch manufacturer Carl F. Bucherer presents the official timepiece of the Swiss national football team that reflects the fascination exerted by the beautiful game.

This summer promises to be a special one. For months now, soccer fans have been looking forward to the excitement and surprises offered by one of the greatest sporting events of them all. Because when it comes to thrills, enthusiasm and sheer partisan commitment, nothing quite equals the World Cup. And that enthusiasm is shared by premium watch brand Carl F. Bucherer. Now, as an expression of its love of sport and loyalty to the Swiss national football team, the Lucerne- based watch manufacturer is proud to dedicate a special model to them: the Patravi ScubaTec SFV Special Edition, a thoroughbred sports watch that was developed especially for the Swiss soccer team and officially presented on May 27.

In a striking combination of black and red, the limited sports model is equipped with a wealth of fascinating features: engravings of various footballers are visible on the pleochroic dial, while the logo of the Swiss Football Association – the SFV – makes the watch an unmistakable hallmark of the brand. With all the sophisticated technology of a top-quality diver's watch, including integrated strap adjustment, automatic helium valve and unidirectional rotating bezel, the Patravi ScubaTec SFV Special Edition is the ideal sports watch both above and below the surface. The robust rubber strap and eye-catching stainless-steel bezel with black and red ceramic inserts endow the extraordinary timepiece with its unmistakably sporting character. On the case back of this outstanding special edition is another exclusive and individual detail: an intricate engraving of a football together with the name of the player to whom the watch belongs. Because, as part of a drive to strengthen and motivate the entire national team, each player will be presented with his own personal Patravi ScubaTec SFV Special Edition.

At a press conference held on May 27 and attended by distinguished guests from the worlds of football and watchmaking, three of the Swiss players, representing the entire team, received their own personal special editions. A panel discussion following the presentation led by radio presenter Andy Wolf raised lots of thought-provoking questions about watches and sport.

Equipped with the perfect wristwatch for a sporting occasion, and buoyed up by their unlimited commitment and love of the game, the Swiss national team is now ready for anything. Let the Brazilian adventure begin.

The watch will be available in stores from June.

Photograph: Carl F. Bucherer

Battery change...

Looks like more watches to go thru.... :)

The Pulsar boys....

Time to visit my friendly watch guy....

Christopher Ward C65 Trident Classic

From its understated yet distinctive design through to the fastidious attention lavished on every detail of its construction, let there be no doubt that the C65 Trident Classic thoroughly deserves its name.

The newest addition to Christopher Ward’s best-selling Trident Collection, the C65 Trident Classic, although sharing a number of design cues with its sportier stable mates is unmistakably a dress watch, first and foremost, albeit with a sporting DNA. The stylishly familiar Guilloché ‘wave’ pattern of the dial is presented in the two simple but timeless colour options that have always expressed classic sophistication across the ages, from Cary Grant to George Clooney – Matt Black and Optic White.

Photographs: Christopher Ward

To be worthy of the appellation “classic”, we knew as well as having a timeless, understated style, the C65 needed to be remorseless in attending to every single detail. From the perfectly proportioned, fundamentally re-engineered, satin-finish stainless steel case with its deep stamped Trident emblem on the reverse side, to the sharpness of the raised, SuperLuminova filled nickel indexes, this is a watch that demands closer examination for its quality to be fully appreciated.

If cutting a stylish, sophisticated dash is important, the C65 Trident Classic is the watch for you. It’s perhaps no wonder, therefore, that inside CW Towers we call it ‘the George Clooney’!

The new C65 Trident Classic is available now on Pre-order for delivery in late June 2014.


Swiss Made
Self-winding automatic movement
38 hour power reserve
42mm marine-grade 316L brushed stainless steel case
SuperLuminova indexes and hands
4mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal
High Definition “Trident” motif back-plate
Unique engraved serial number
Strap Options: Embossed Alligator Pattern Italian leather strap with Bader Buckle; 316L brushed stainless steel bracelet
Beautiful presentation case and owner’s manual


Diameter: 42mm
Height: 10.4mm
Calibre: Sellita SW200-1
Strap: Leather or Steel
Water Resistance: 15 ATM (150 metres)

Vibrations: 28,800 per hour